There’s something I love about an illusion of permanence when it comes to kink, admittedly it doesn’t have to be an illusion but out of the realms of fantasy real life permanence doesn’t tend to work. So with this is mind I’ve been trying to come up with an idea for a collar that has no easily identifiable locking mechanism. what I really want is something for a leather collar but I haven’t been able to find anything suitable so the search continues. But in the mean time I wanted to share this very simple mechanism for a heavyweight industrial chain collar
So the idea is you cut the chain so you end up with two halfs. Make sure the size is correct so when you hold them together they give the appearance of 1 solid link. then on one half drill to a set depth and tap the 2 legs to receive a grub screw.
On the other side you need to drill and tap so that a grub screw will fit all the way down. make sure this hole goes all the way through the chain.
And thats it! you’re done. you can now screw the grub screws into the chain and it will create a nearly seamless link. And that seamless link with no visible locking mechanism looks absolutely stunning!! When I get around to creating one I think I’d like to try distressing the chain, giving it a very weathered and rusty look. you can then seal the finish and have a very grungy looking chain.
Lately I’ve been toying with the idea of making my own vacbed. the idea doesn’t seem overly complicated, it’ll be fun learning how to work with latex and it’s an awesome bit of kit. I’ve done a lot of research and the thing that I really didn’t like with a majority of the DIY vac beds out there is the requirement to leave the vacuum cleaner on. I couldn’t deal with that so I decided to start with a valve mechanism. I managed to get myself a one way valve and stripped it down
The parts on the left are the valve and the tube on the right is the PVC pipe I want to attach it too. I wanted to mount the valve on the inside of the PVC cap to try and reduce my risk of leakage so I marked the centre of the PVC pipe and being cutting out a circle. To cut the circle I initially drilled lots of holes to remove the bulk of the material….
Then I used a scalpel to remove the rest and tidied the hole with some sandpaper. now I have the hole I needed to cut down the flange on the valve so it fitted inside the cap
Once everything fitted it was a simple case of assembling the valve inside the cap, with a helping hand of silicone to remove those pesky leaks. Now it was time to do a proper test. I rigged up a sealed bag and attached the vacuum. SHE WORKED!!! she pulled a very good vacuum in the bag…but the vacuum alone would do that, time to turn her off. A few nail biting seconds later I relaxed she was still a tight vacuum 😀 I ended up leaving this sealed bag over night and coming back to it in the morning and she was still holding pressure! she worked a treat.
Now I’m under no illusions, I know that on the full size vacbed there are bound to be leaks, but hopefully it will mean the vacuum will only be needed for the occasional top up. meaning no distractions by that annoying motor whirling away while subby is trying to slip off to happy place. Next on the list is to try and source a very very cheap airtight zipper. Failing that I have been advised that a normal zip with a latex flap underneath can work well if done correctly…we shall see!
This is definitely something on the ever growing todo list 🙂
Insertable dildo that locks in place by clamping down onto the labia. Still need to massively improve this though, would be great to have a way of locking the clamps shut but not entirely sure how to do that yet. possibly could be done by putting a hole through a bolt
Then you screw the bolt into the center support to the clamping depth required
then slide the clamping bar over
and once the holes line up you can put padlocks through, the padlocks will stop both the clamping bar coming off and the bolt from being unscrewed. Definitely something to explore. But as always if anyone has any better suggestions I’d love to hear them
Something I would love to create is a headbox using one/way mirrors. These are the mirrors you see in police stations where one side appears perfectly clear and the other side is mirrored. normally the mirrored side has to be brighter than the clear side so I reckon a run of LEDS in the top of the box would light the poor subby up very nicely. I’d like to try and hide the LED’s behind some frosted acrylic to give a nice even glow
I decided to do a quick test run so I ordered some acrylic and some privacy film from amazon. The film itself was extremely thin and unfortunately the acrylic was very easy to scratch. I also had issues applying the film to the acrylic. I tried and tried to float it on, but I could not get rid of all of the air bubbles. However, for my test, it worked fine. I quickly mounted the acrylic in a cardboard box to see how she worked
From the outside, it was very clear looking in. This is just the effect I’m after. The lighted box really highlights the subby’s face inside, time to have a look from the inside…
Nothing but a beautiful reflection!! perfect! well, not quite perfect…unfortunately you can still barely see through the glass. However, I reckon if I can find someone to do me a proper toughened one-way mirror then this will be fixed. I just need to source some at a reasonable price. If you have any advice on this project please feel free to get in touch.
So far I’m really excited about this project. I keep picturing what it would be like to be stuck in the box, Only able to see your own reflection and knowing that’s what everyone else can see too! I think it would be fantastic to scale this up to a full display cabinet size too!
I have always loved the look of the thick chunky steel cuffs. They just invoke a sense of permanence and unyielding. I was absolutely desperate for a pair but I just couldn’t afford the price tag for a decent set, but never fear… DIY to the rescue!!!
The first step towards making these was to figure out the right shape for my wrist. I wanted them to be snug but not too tight. I didn’t want them flopping about all the time as I knew that would annoy me. To figure out the right shape I cut out various ovals in a bit of paper and held it on my wrist. It was a lot of trial and error but helped me nail down the cuff size. Once I was happy and had my paper template I glued it onto some chunks of carbon. I cut out the internal or ‘wrist’ side first. every now and again holding the half onto my wrist to check the fit and grinding away as necessary. I had to ensure that both the halves of the cuff wrapped further around my wrist than needed so I had space to create the hinge/lock mechanism. once the internal shape fitted my wrist it was easy to copy the shape onto the outer surface and grind it away to give me the cuff shape. In the photo below you can see I’ve just reached this stage and have marked out positions for the hinge/lock
I knew I couldn’t do anything too technical with a hinge mechanism without the cuffs losing strength so I figured the best/easiest way to secure them closed would be to simply use a bolt. I did a cut out in both halves of the cuffs so they slotted together and then drilled down through both of them at the same time. In the photo below you can see me checking they close correctly using some metal pins
In order to be able to use the cuffs as a restraint, I needed a way to attach a D-ring to them. again I chose the simplest solution and glued a threaded insert into the carbon. I had a friend machine me a beautifully threaded insert then I completely failed to try to make a D-ring for it. You can see that I really struggled to get the shape correct. Next time I will definitely put some more effort into this part. I did, however, weld the D-ring closed once it was in the insert to give it strength.
In the photo below you can see the final cuff. I wished I could have counterbored the bolt so it was hidden but the cuffs ended up just a tiny bit too thin. But I do kind of like the industrial look it brings. I may try and find some grub screws one day
The advantage to the D-ring being removable is that other things can be screwed into place. you could thread the ends of a metal bar and voila, you have a rigid spreader bar.
I do hope to come back and try this project again one day and create a better system for the cuffs. A hidden hinge would be the first improvement. I would love to find a discreet yet strong locking mechanism too. A set of accessories for the threaded holes would be a fantastic addition as well to make this a nice little set.
So I’m pretty lucky where I work. I have access to a lot of carbon fibre. It’s been itching my brain to try and make myself some more custom toys out of the stuff while I can.
So with that in mind I decided on making a custom fibre butt plug. So I started with a rectangular off cut. I then drilled a 10mm hole into it and in that hole I bonded some 10mm Stainless Steel bar
The steel bar then enabled me to put the block in the chuck of the pillar drill. This made short work of grinding it to shape. The shape itself was just done by eye.
As you can see in the picture above the pillar drill trick enabled me to grind it extremely quickly to shape. The hard part was keeping an eye on the door in work so no one saw what I was making. That would have brought up some awkward questions 😛
The pillar drill also made light work of polishing. All I had to do was put the polishing compound on a rag and rub the plug whilst it span in the pillar drill.
Finally all I had to do was grind the bottom off and polish that up. All in all this probably took around 2 hours to make but most of that time was spent tweaking it and trying to get it perfect.
She came out better than I had anticipated and the pictures just don’t do her justice! however I kinda got the size a bit screwy and she’s a lot bigger than she originally looked when grinding her to shape. So I reckon I’ll have to get back grinding to make her a little sister when the opportunity presents itself 🙂
When I first met my partner she showed me some of her snake whips and it’s safe to say I instantly fell in love! they are just so much fun.
The first time I tried to crack her whip…well I hit myself on the shoulder and it was more of a pathetic flop than the enthusiastic Indian Jones style crack, this was the same on the second attempt and every other attempt up until number 3000. But it was still great fun relaxing in the garden with her showing off her skills and me desperately trying (and failing) to look impressive during my turns.
I knew I wanted one!
But as is the case with anything of quality I just couldn’t justify the expense to buy one. Don’t get me wrong they are worth the price with the work that goes into them. They are works of art!
So youtube to the rescue! there are tons of different tutorials online and I highly recommend This tutorial from Nicks Whip Shop.
It may seem long at nearly 2 hours but please don’t let put you off. Most of the techniques are fairly simple and repetitive so it’s really not that complicated. If anything I found the whole process to be very therapeutic and relaxing. These are made from Paracord instead of leather but work just as well!
And that was the results of my first whip! as you can see she looks a little grubby, and that is because I was so damned excited I ran straight out to play with her! She is no where near perfect. You can see many, many, mistakes. But she works PERFECTLY! she cracks beautifully! I think in total it took around 8 hours to make, but that time was broken up over a couple of days, plus I buggered up a few times and had to retrace my steps. But she was amazing and well worth the time invested. Once I got into the plaiting groove I found it really relaxing to make to so it wasn’t exactly 8 hours of hard labour 🙂
I ended up making a second whip that was exactly the same as this one. The reason being that wielding one whip looks cool…but using TWO at the same time looks total badass and feels amazing. But unfortunately I never took any pictures of that one
Now this is my favourite whip!!!! it was made as a gift for a friend and came out absolutely stunning! I ended up being gutted I couldn’t keep her for myself! But you can already see the improvements over my first whip to this one (the third whip)
A quick shot of the overlay being plaited
The main improvements to this whip were:
- tighter plaiting
- spending more time rolling every belly
- thinking about how best to hide my strand drops
I did run into a few problems. This was the first time I used different paracord to the original and when doing the core the BB’s just wouldn’t fit into the cord. It was ever so slightly smaller. luckily I had some cord left over from my first two whips so I used that instead for it. It’s just something to bear in mind. I am still struggling with making the drops look neat during the plaiting stage as well. A lot of tutorials I see show this step but don’t go into detail on the best ways to make them look good. But for me that’s fine. I am more than happy with these imperfections as unless inspected they look amazing! and as for those CRACKS!!!! If I get a chance I’ll get a video
So if you want a whip but can’t justify the expense I would definitely recommend making one yourself. In total 1 cost me about £20’s worth of supplies but I had enough of those supplies left over to make a second.
Next on the list is to try and make myself a leather one…
Hello dear reader, and welcome to my little slice of the web.
I decided to start this blog as a way of keeping track of all my little creations and all the info that goes with them. My twisted mind thinks of so many different quirky little concepts that it becomes impossible to remember all the cool things I want to try and create.
It will also be a way for me to show my designs/ideas/techniques with other people too as it’s always great to get input and help/support.